Gorillas in the mist, June 2022
This was a wonderful tour which exceeded all expectations. Ugandan entry protocol was all pretty straightforward; on arrival in Entebbe we needed to show our NHS vaccination status, our yellow fever vaccination card (this may be accepted on your phone but if you have it take it with you) and your visa approval letter. It’s best to have printed copies of these and I put each one in a separate envelope to have them easily to hand. You will also need to show your vaccination status in Dubai but other than this just your passport is enough at check in. However, I'd still take your flight details just in case.
We successfully touched down in Entebbe and a separate line was required to obtain our visa. One guy, not connected to our group and in the line next to me, was quarrelling with the officers as he didn't seem to have an approval letter. The immigration lady was wagging mine in his direction saying 'this is what you need - one of these' before stamping my visa. I felt a sense of satisfaction that I'd been a good boy and was soon on my way, although I obviously don't know the outcome of the naughty man in the line next to me.
From the time of landing we were through the airport within the hour and met by our two driver/guides Aficano and Tony working for Speke Uganda holidays. Our Tour Manager, Damian Stent, travelled with us from London from the moment we met at check in to checking us all into the lounge, through Dubai airport and through all the formalities on arrival in Entebbe.
We were a group of 11, six men & five ladies, and we set off for the ten - fifteen min drive to the best western hotel in 2 vehicles, each of which held six plus one next to driver. TM Damien used this seat although he did alternate between vehicles.
Once settled into our rooms we met up to pop next door to the shopping mall where there was a supermarket and other shops, but our main purpose was to change some dollars into Schillings. Most of us changed $50 worth which seemed to go quite a long way as I only exchanged another $30 with a few days left. As I took $300 I found this ample as you can book all your drinks at the lodges etc to your room and pay on departure either by cash or card.
We left Entebbe the next morning and there was, at your discretion, a seat rotation policy so if you started in the back seats you'd move to the middle the following day and then the front the day after that - or front, middle, back and so on. We also swapped vehicles every day so we got to know both drivers and this all worked very well. All 11 of us, plus the TM and 2 drivers, got on really well.
Our first day covered the southern White rhino sanctuary and the thundering waters of Murchison Falls, both of which were awesome sights.
We had an exciting game drive the following morning, where in the early morning light we spotted a family of Hyienas scurrying along the dusty road and so much other game including antelopes, buffalo, many species of bird and the occasional monkey.
A breakfast break was taken at Lake Albert where we tucked into our packed breakfasts as well as hot tea and coffee.
The leisurely boat trip along the Nile to Murchison Falls in the afternoon was rather pleasant, where we spotted elephants and the odd crocodile as we ventured as close as we were allowed to these impressive falls.
Some days involved lots of travelling but these were never dull and some of the bumpiest roads you’re ever likely to travel on will keep your concentration levels up. But fear not, there are fast paced tarmacked roads here and there as we continued on through several towns and villages to visit a tea plantation where we enjoyed a cup of Ugandan tea and a biscuit or two.
The Chimpanzee trek in Kibale National Park was a little tough but was mainly on the flat - just be careful where you tread and you'll be fine. We heard the chimpanzees some 20 mins in and after around 30 mins we got our first viewing. The chimps sure enjoyed putting on a show for us as we were allowed an hour in their presence which was a great experience. From here we drove to Tinkas Homestay for lunch and a chance to sample some Ugandan home made cooking.
All our lodges or hotels were of super-duper standard, especially the Birds Nest and Emburara Lodge, but the Silverback Lodge in Bwindi is amazing for the view and also for the drive up there. Most had buffet style meals and a couple you could order in advance from an excellent menu.
The Bigodi Swamp walk was interesting and, although it involved rather strenuous trekking across the many boardwalks over the course of an hour and a half, it was rather exciting trying to spot the different species of monkey in the trees as we went. Our vehicles got ambushed by baboons on entering the park whereby they wouldn't let us proceed until they'd checked us out!
A game drive in Queen Elizabeth National Park was another thrilling experience with the highlight being 2 young male lions along with our boat ride on the kazinga channel spotting many birds, elephants, buffalo and an incredible sight of Hippos amongst other wildlife along the bank.
So this brings me to the main event, Gorilla Trekking in Bwindi National Park. We had the choice of the slower paced group or the faster paced group, with each group being made up of 8 people. Hiring a porter ($15) is essential, believe me, so unless you are an experienced trekker attempting the walk without one would be very unwise. They help you up and down the steep sections, in addition to carrying your bags, and are literally worth their weight in gold. We got lucky as just minutes in our leader turned to inform us that the trackers had found our group about an hour's trek into the forest. This was NOT a walk in the park, it was tough going which at times will have you out of breath but there were short breaks as we went along. We met up with the trackers after maybe 45-50 mins who led us down a bank to the gorilla family we had come to see. Wow wow wow! We had an hour enjoying one of the most exciting wildlife experiences on the planet before returning to the point where we entered the forest. A most amazing experience and afterwards, a huge sense of achievement at having completed our trek.
Our time in this wonderful country drew to a close with a night at the wonderful Emburara Eco Farm Lodge with an opportunity to milk one of the herd with John the herdsman.
One last word - tree-climbing lions. What tree-climbing lions? You’ll be lucky if you see them during your drive through the Ishasha sector of Queen Elizabeth National Park. It will be interesting to know if future groups are rewarded with a sighting. Maybe this should be omitted from the programme as I've yet to hear from anyone who's seen them.
In summary, a wonderful tour with a great group who all got on and two fantastic drivers who deserve a mention due to lots of driving on some tricky roads. Lovely weather throughout, great food and one of the best and most knowledgeable Tour Managers in Damian Stent you could wish for, who looked after us all the way from Heathrow and back.
Any questions please ask. Oh, laundry services are excellent and best done at the 2 night stays.
Kind Regards
Dave
