There have been several extensive reviews of the Burma land tours, which have given a lot of general informationabout the country, but I thought I would add a few notes about the river cruise.
First, KL airport transfer involves a short ride on a transit train - no intermediate stations, just get off when it stops and proceed to next gate.
Sule Shangri La hotel Yangon. There is a cafe for lunch in reception $10-15. All prices in dollars, but one may pay in local currency kyat (chat), dollars or card. There is a bank near reception for changing pristine dollars if no time at the airport.. They will also change notes to smaller denominations (as will the purser on board down to 1000k). I found $100 just about adequate - more if you shop.
Kalaw Pandaw. A really lovely boat with a very friendly and helpful 20 strong crew. The 18cabins are all made of solid Teak with twin beds, air con, safe and hair dryer. Tap water is for washing only, but bottles are supplied and replenished through the week. Meals were all taken on the open upper deck at the stern which was very pleasant. All were cooked to order from an imaginitive menu of 3 or 4 choices, and were excellently prepared and presented. No meals were taken ashore.
Each evening, the purser detailed the next day's programme and a copy was placed in each cabin during dinner. Beers, local spirits, mixers and soft drinks were free. Wine and other brands were charged to cabin. Wine about $22 a bottle, $5 a glass. There was a laundry list in the cabin (items $1-3), and accounts were settled in dollars or kyat on the final evening. Cards are a problem due to poor or non-existent connectivity. I believe phones are also difficult or impossible.
Dress codes. On board, dress was totally informal- wear what you like. As mentioned in the land reviews, bare feet only at religious sites so sandals are the best option. Knees and shoulders must be covered, so no shorts or strappy tops. T shirts are fine.
Disembarkation is up sloping sandy banks, so this tour is not suitable for those with mobility problems, although the crew offer assistance if required.
Tea/coffee was available in the bar from 0600 for early risers( to see the sunrise). Breakfast 7-9am.
Most days there were two shore excursions. Water bottles and carriers were offered at the gangplank, and on return a welcome cold drink was at hand. Footwear was removed on boarding and returned, cleaned, to your cabin later - it is very sandy and dusty underfoot. The crew offer wipes on exiting a temple in bare feet.
Occasional diversions were also held - a puppet theatre, traditional dancing and two very interesting films followed dinners some evenings.
Take binoculars if you have them for taking in rural life on the banks and water birds. The river is a wide and busy waterway and very noisy sometimes as all craft have straight through exhausts with no silencers - deafening as they pass. On the last evening, the boat moored on a sandbank in the middle of the river, and the crew set out chairs, lights, music and a bar, and we had a pre-prandial party with them all as it got dark - a lovely end to an interesting cruise.
Back in Yangon, the TM Glen Cox arranged a dinner in a nice restaurant upstairs in the mall at the end of the reception corridor of the hotel ( own account), and we had a free morning before returning to the airport at lunchtime next day. Be sure to change kyat back to dollars or euros in the hotel bank or airport.
Useful phrases - mingalabar - a general greeting used all the time
jes- you-bar - thank you.
Burma is changing, but for now is a charming view of " the old far east" with very smiley people - go soon if you can.
