Question - how would you feel if your driver stopped the coach in the middle of no-where, led the group into the middle of a strangely squashy field, produced a spade and then invited you all to stick you hand down the muddy hole that she had just dug? The answer, if you are lucky enough to follow me and JY's group of fellow guinea pigs on it's first 'Ultimate Alaska' tour is 'Thrilled!" because the field was Artic Tundra and six inches into the hole was permafrost - the solid floor of ice that makes the artic landscape the truly magical place that it is.
I could happily write a detailed day-by-day review of the wonderful experience (which has nudged passed Canada and the Rocky Mountaineer to become my favourite of my JY adventures) but, I don't want to completely spoil it for the group departing in September, so here are my edited highlights, opinions and a few tips:
Overall Rating: (while running the risk of being shot by the rest of the group for using our 'favourite' Alaskan phrase...) AWESOME!!!
First the logistics....
Tour Manager - All hail our wonderful TM, David 'BEAR!!!' Crawford. David provided us all with a detailed, 16 page, day-by-day itinerary complete with timings, photos and descriptions of what we could look forward to when we met at Heathrow. I have never seen this done before on any of my previous JY trips (apparently DC does it for every group he leads) and it was a brilliant tool which we all really appreciated (No pressure - all you other TMs....)
Driver - Tina Turner (yes, really) - a lovely lady with over 20 years experience as a 'busser' which has included working the ice roads to Prudoe Bay featured in many a satellite TV documentary. Tina's commentary tended to be more personal experiences and family/friends tales rather than Alaskan history (and we could all have done without the 'nose bleed story'...) but she did a great job of getting us from A to B quickly and safely and was a lot of fun.
Flights - Delta were fine (although I'm told by those that chose to upgrade that the costs were huge), but I think next year's travellers will have a shorter journey to Anchorage via Reykjavik rather than our rather long outward drag via Minneapolis, (with all the hassle of immigration, retrieving and rechecking our hold baggage and going through security again) which took around 16 hours including the stopover and the 15 hour return via Sea-Tac.
Hotels - All six were very nice, comfortable and clean. All were a little way out of town but had courtesy shuttle buses. Some had spectacular views - Talkeetna winning hands down. Some had some charming quirks like the wacky signage and thoughtful welcome packs at Denali and the 'Maplins' style chalets in Fairbanks. The IT Suites in Anchorage were a little tired and in need of renovation (think wood chip and magnolia) and several of the group either had a broken hairdryer in their room or none at all. The IT apparently does not usually provide breakfasts and, while we appreciated their efforts to 'order in' for us, none of us were impressed by the paper plates and plastic cutlery here and at the Best Western Valdeez (On a £5k holiday? Have a word, JY)
Weather - Sorry September crew but we had the best! Even the locals couldn't believe the blue skies that accompanied us everywhere ("It's NEVER like this.." was the common phrase). Other than a bit of drizzle on our last couple of days, it was glorious and between 16-22 degrees C.
Now the fun stuff ......
Included Excursions/itinerary -
- Welcome dinner - Through no fault of JY's as the planned venue closed a couple of months ago, we were taken to the Anchorage Hard Rock Café. As Hard Rock is by nature noisy with colourful haired, tattooed and pierced servers (and that was just the girls...), it wasn't the ideal place for the usual JY demographic to chat and get to know each other. There are a number of other good options in Anchorage so JY probably need to rethink this for the September group.
- Alaska Wild Berry Products - It manufactures on site, has a large chocolate and ice cream counter and a huge chocolate waterfall but ultimately it's just a large out of town gift shop.
- Alyeska ariel tramway and smoked salmon vodka tasting - The cable car was fun and the view from the top of the mountain stunning but, oh my, the expressions on the faces of those brave enough to try the vodka said it all! Apparently it was revolting and, as the tasting was a set time, it restricted our day. In my personal view, JY should consider ditching the tasting in favour of...
- Alaskan Wildlife Conservation Centre - Not strictly an included excursion, rather a pleasant time killing diversion that DC came up with. This is a delightful place and we would all have liked more time there.
- Resurrection Bay Cruise with included Prime Rib and Salmon buffet on Fox Island - Superb.
- Wilderness Express - a four hour journey from Talkeetna to Denali on a double decker rail car of the same model as those used by the Gold Leaf Service of the Rocky Mountaineer. Refreshments were at additional cost but worth it (Note to the September crew - the train does not accept cash so everything you eat/drink or purchase during the journey is run on a tab to be settled by debit/credit card at the end of the day)
- Denali National Park bus safari - a seven hour journey of many wonders (more of which later...). A packed lunch is provided, in a souvenir cool bag, by the hotel and a snack box and bottles of water are provided on the bus. These are American style school buses rather than luxury coaches but comfortable. Those with bad backs should be aware that the terrain can be quite 'bouncy' which may be uncomfortable and jarring on the spine.
- North Pole - A bit of a disappointment which could probably be dropped. This isn't a themed 'village' as we had expected but basically just one building, the Santa House, which is just another big gift shop, albeit with real reindeer in the garden and Santa himself available for consultations and photos. The rest of the town is just a normal Alaskan borough, An honourable mention for attempting to get into the spirit of things with their candy cane themed gates should go to North Pole Welding and North Pole Gravel though...
- Pioneer Park - Personally I enjoyed this but many felt that it was more of a family theme park than some kind of 'living museum' as the photos had perhaps suggested. A nice diversion for a couple of hours though and, as with everywhere, the locals were wonderfully friendly (even though most of them thought the JY group were Australians....)
- Columbia Glacier cruise - One of the highlights of the trip for many of us. Well, have you ever heard an iceberg doing an impression of a bowl of Rice Krispies??
Optional Excursions -- The 'Iditeride' - a summer version of Alaska's national sport - dog mushing- at kennels owned by Iditerod race Champion Mitch Seavey. This was great fun and it was a joy to see how excited the Alaskan Huskies were at 'going to work' and how well cared for they are.
- Alaska Sea Life Centre - I didn't go but those who did enjoyed it.
- Gold Dredge 8 - Frustratingly, this was scheduled on the same day as the Arctic Circle trip so it wasn't possible to do both so most of us missed out, but I understand that the four that did it had great fun and Ray is planning to retire on the $8 worth of gold that he panned!
- Riverboat Discovery river trip - also on the same day as Gold Dredge 8 and consequently only four of us had the opportunity to go.
- Artic Circle Fly Drive (actually Drive/Fly but all the better for it) - This is a very long (4am alarm call) day but was amazing. Our driver Mimi was a tad too perky at 5.30am, trying to get us to join in with icebreaker games ("Tell everyone who y'all are and how you came to visit Alaska- That'd be Awesome!!") But we soon made it gently clear to her that we Brits on tour are a little too reserved for that sort of thing, certainly at Silly O'clock in the morning..., and she soon got the message and let us be. There are too many highlights to mention in this day, including the permafrost touching and the return flight home in a Piper Navejo, but I know the September Crew will enjoy 'crossing the line' as much as we did and visiting the bustling metropoli that are Cold Foot and the Yukon River Camp. Say hello to Dorothy for us, September Guys!
So, I think that's just about everything....oh wait...did I forget something....? Oh yes WILDLIFE :angel:
In no particular order, we saw Grizzly Bears, Caribou, Dall Sheep, Sea Otters, Bald Eagles, Hump Back Whales, Black Bears, Dall Porpoises, Puffins, Elk, Bison, Sea Lions, Golden Eagles, four pods of Orcas, Artic Ground Squirrels, Seals and,,,,wait for it, Mr Gray........MOOSE :D
So, stunning scenery,a great group (Hello Retail Therapists!), friendly locals and a lifetime of photo opportunities (and the fridge magnet selection is pretty good too...). I think you may need to re-arrange your 'to-do' lists, Bob and Jaya.
As always, I'm happy to answer any questions, but I reckon the Moai of Easter Island are going to have to go some in September to top it for me because this tour really does what says on the tin, "Ultimate Alaska"
All the best
Mandy
P.S - Yes, that really is the 'edited highlights - you should have seen the original draft......!