Having just returned the “Wild Arctic Summer” trip to Canada, here is my review of the holiday which I hope is not too long and people will find useful if considering such a trip. I flew out 3 hours ahead of my companions so didn’t meet them until the onward connection to Winnipeg but Air Canada was up to its normal high standards of service.
Our Tour manager Yvette Barnett who was not only very well organised but has a wealth of experience on this trip and this ensured that we made the most of all the opportunities. Thank you Yvette
Days 2 and 3 were spent at the Riding Mountain national Park which include a boardwalk on the Omminik Marsh and a boat ride on Clear Lake. We saw the odd beaver and a few flowers etc but I must admit to being a bit underwhelmed especially as the wolf howling and campfire did not work out as planned. Day 3 started with a trip to the forest area and then :) “Kapow” :) there was a black bear dragging a deer into a hiding place and suddenly everyone was uplifted to a point of “this is what we came for”. We were then lucky enough to see a herd of Bison and then an Elk. I have done enough safaris to know that animals do not pose for pictures, and it is about having a guide who knows where to look and a lot of luck. (more on this later)
Day 4 we flew to Churchill for the next 4 nights with everyone now hoping to see a polar bear, which would make the holiday complete. The flight was a small chartered flight from a small airport so there was none of the security and check in rigmarole normally associated with air travel.
On arrival, you realise that Churchill, Manitoba is a whole new experience and is a place that you can only fly into or arrive by train after a 48 hour journey. It has a population of about 800 and many people do 2 or 3 jobs in and out of the tourist season but everyone is friendly and welcoming. All the hotels on the trip were good and like any other hotel used in the “Tourist World” but the Lazy Bear Lodge where we stayed was both very comfortable and very welcoming whilst maintaining a lodge atmosphere. I have stayed in a few ski lodges but the Lazy Bear is much more than that. (it is dry but there is a bar up the road in the only other hotel) The whole Churchill experience is run by Wally and his family and is the product of his vision of what can be done to show visitors all there is to see. (Do watch the video on the JY website (I am surprised at how few did) and better still, go to the Lazy Bear website where there is a wealth of information https://www.lazybearlodge.com/?gclid=CLSZxNWHjM4CFQ8z0wodalMIMA
The 4-day programme is packed with activities both on and off the water but there is free time to visit the Eskimo Museum which is now considered to be an incorrect name but its one that has stuck. It is also worth visiting the National Parks Canada museum which is based in the railway station. It would help spending a few hours reading about the “First Nation’ people and the Hudson Bay Company as it will bring to life much of what the guides tell you on your trips out.
Most people did the kayak trip and is fine for anyone who has not kayaked before and there was plenty of help and instruction. Wet suites are provided and out there on the water was our first experience of Beluga whales who are very inquisitive animals and will come and investigate. They come very close and even bump the kayaks but it is quite safe and an incredible experience.
Five of us did the snorkelling trip and again all the equipment was provided and this time in drysuites where we were told to wear socks, tracksuit bottoms and a fleece (as a minimum) underneath.
I did not particularly enjoy the experience as I found the suits very cumbersome and felt like Mr Blobby and struggled to get over on my front. The whales do come but I’m not sure how I would have been if they had come too close.
As for the beluga whales, you will see thousands of them on several trips and they will flock to wherever you are on the water. Fascinating to watch but notoriously difficult to photograph because the heads and tails very rarely come out of the water so most of the time all you ever see is the middle third but keep your camera poised as sometimes you might catch a head or a tail.
So, lots of activities but “What about the Polar Bears”, well wherever we went our guide had the Klaxon, spray and gun as they can lay down between the rocks and can pop up right in front of you but no such luck. Everything we did is weather dependant so the programme can and will change daily. The Lazy Bear operation certainly values the JY custom and if there is a bear to be seen they will do their utmost to get us there.
We were getting near the end of our time there and finally the boat trip out to see if we can find a bear is on and we left about 4pm in the evening wearing yet another survival suit but it was protection against cold and rain as the boat is open to the elements. It is a very fast craft and we headed out for somewhere called Hubbard point, which is in Nova Scotia. My companions and I were somewhat quite as we realised that we might not see any bears even though Wally was going to do his best.
After about 3 hours travelling and being entertained by the whales we reached our destination and then Wally announced that there was a bear rolling in the grass about a 100 yards inshore but even with my zoom lens it was not going to make a great photo over my fireplace. At least we had seen one in the wild and this was much better than not seeing one at all. Cruising along the waters edge we then spotted another one but still a long way away but this was a bonus and then another :) :) “KAPOW” :) :) moment as a Bear stood up from behind the rocks about 30 metres away and everyone’s hopes and expectations were fulfilled right there. We did see more bears but not sure if it was 3 or 4 as they can move so quickly and the 4th could have been the first again
As we left Churchill we could not have asked for more and I am not sure how we would have felt had we not seen a polar bear. It’s a chance one takes and all I can say is Lazy Bear will find you one if they can above all else.
Back in Winnipeg there was evening meal at the Research Centre and you will definitely see a polar bear especially underneath in the glass tunnel where it will be bouncing up and down in the water above you whilst enjoying complimentary cocktails (you, not the bear) followed by and excellent meal and lecture.
The final day included a visit to the Canadian Museum of Human Rights which some were not too interested in but some of us could have spent days there and if I ever return to Winnipeg it will be top of my list.
Four of us chose to do the add on with 3 nights in Toronto so there is the chance to do the CN Tower, the developments along the water front and of course Niagara Falls. The trip can be organised through the hotel concierge and is about 80 dollars. Two of our group did the helicopter trip but this meant their actual visit to the falls was very limited so do check if you want to do both. The tour then takes in the town of Niagara on the lake, which was well worth seeing from an historical point of view, particularly how the houses are all preserved in their original form. I am afraid our guide who was also the driver started off well but unfortunately there was no off switch and he talked non-stop all day. I have been all over Asia and am well used to the end of the day visit to the “Factory Shop” but didn’t expect it in Canada but its what we got and it was a visit to a winery. Our guide kept on all day about who’s looking forward to some alcohol but all we got is 2 sips and a sales pitch. Do ask if this is on your tour because it wasted an hour to my life, which I will never get back.
Things to Know before you go.....
Accommodation is excellent and free Wi-Fi available is everywhere.
Electrical plugs are two-pin flat type throughout.
Dress down as tee shirts and trousers are all you need so don’t take lots of smart casual clothes
Portion Size in restaurants is not as big as the US but still bigger than the UK, it seems acceptable to leave what you can’t eat on the plate
It is hot most of the time but in Churchill it can range from freezing to baking. Seriously on our first day most people had to go to the store to buy thick hats and gloves. With the wind-chill it can be bitter but the next day it was very hot. A fleece and tee shirt is not enough so think all seasons in one day and you will be prepared.
On the hot days in Churchill come the bugs and they bite so plenty of ant mosi cream and I would recommend at least one containing 50% deet.
I spent a total of 800 Canadian Dollars on the trip and I didn’t hold back. You will need to work that out as the sterling is fluctuating but I could have spent a lot less.
I am not sure how to sum up the trip as like many on here I am extremely lucky to have done many long haul “trips of a life time” and I have never had a bad one. If its your first big one then you won’t be disappointed especially if you see a polar bear and I understand most do and the brochure provides a very accurate description.
If anyone has any questions please feel free to ask.
Keith
