We were halfway through our Tour and had reached Day 8.
We left the lodge at 6:15 and set off for our morning Game Drive. We’d barely gone 100 yards when 2 Hyenas appeared from the bush and led us down the track for 200 yards before disappearing left ! We reached the starting point after 45 mins and were quickly on our way. Everyone was keeping their eyes peeled in the hope of spotting Lions and/or Leopards. There were huge numbers of Kob, as usual, plus Warthogs, Buffalo, Waterbucks and birds aplenty. After about half an hour we came across 3 parked up vehicles. Always a good sign ! Sure enough, about 25 yds from the track were 2 young male Lions resting up. Great views and the stars of the show were quite unperturbed by everyone’s presence ! Once we’d had our fill we moved on hoping to spot leopards, elephants and hippos. We found hippos wallowing in a rapidly drying up stream. Huge creatures who needed a bigger bath ! Several birds showed up with photo possibilities which was appreciated by me. Time was moving on and we headed to a refreshment/shop area to have our pre-packed brekkie. This stop lasted 30-40 mins and then we were off again. Soon we reached an area being circled by vultures. When we arrived there was no carcass to be seen and it appeared the birds were checking the area for scraps after a previous day’s kill. We carried on and spotted a few things, but the leopards were elusive sadly. After 3.5 hours in the field we returned to the lodge to find a lone elephant meandering through the scrub about 200 yards from the entrance ! Once back we had about 40 mins before lunch was to be taken. On reaching our rooms we found the grass area outside full of banded mongooses. My room was just being sorted when the cleaner appeared from the door ushering away one of the little critters. Quite cute creatures, but no touching !
After lunch it was time for some R&R and battery recharging. We gathered again at 4:00 for our 4:15 cruise starting a short drive away down below us. A boat all to ourselves, which was good. This was a 2 hour cruise on the Kazinga Channel. Almost immediately birds started to appear by the bucket load. After the tricky photographing on the previous cruise this was at a more sedate pace and consequently a lot more favourable. First sight was of not one Pied Kingfisher, but literally hundreds ! The bank was full of nests and must have stretched for 200 yards or more. It was full of these beautiful little birds. They were perched up, in nests, diving for fish. An extraordinary sight. As we progressed, a whole series of Herons appeared including Goliath (Worlds biggest heron) and gorgeous Squacco. Mixed in were Egrets, Cormorants, Jacana, Glossy Ibis, Maribou Storks, Skimmers, Geese, Plovers, Pelicans, Fish Eagles, Weavers and others. We were also treated to Elephants, Buffalo, Crocodiles and Hippos at regular intervals. The 2 hours flew by and was a clear highlight of the Tour for me, so far. Once back on land we were soon returned to our lodge. At the entrance some striking black and red Gonoleks appeared. Photos acquired. About 40 mins later it was time for dinner and very tasty it was too. It would be sad leaving this fabulous lodge tomorrow when we were heading south towards Bwindi and the gorillas. Another Game Drive also beckoned this time with the chance of seeing some tree climbing lions.
On Day 9 we needed to sort out an overnight bag as suitcases were going to be left atop the vehicles to save time. We set off dead on 8:00 and returned to the main road once again on the rather bumpy dirt track. A 3 hour drive was ahead to our next Game Drive with a brief stop along the way. We soon turned off onto another dirt track and this one was dreadful. Potholes like craters everywhere. Eventually we got through this endurance test and we reached our Game Drive starting point. The area we covered was very open, but with far less wildlife than previously. A saddle billed stork was good to see as well as the National bird, the Grey Crowned Crane. A beauty. Next up was a couple of Topi close to the track. Moving on a little further we came across a group of Topi with 2 young males pleasing the crowd with some antler clashing. A proper fight ! The usual suspects were also seen as we made our way to a clearing next to a muddy looking river for our packed lunch. It turned out this river was the border line between Uganda and Congo. A nice little spot with some shade and the usual plentiful supply of butterflies. With lunch over we finished our Game Drive and then headed for our overnight lodge high up in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. This took about 2.25 hours. The last hour was another test. A very bumpy dirt track with great holes in it much worse than before. Dodging the locals added to the fun and then it started raining ! We reached a turn off for our lodge and Tony had to switch the 4 wheel drive on. The ‘road’ soon got very steep indeed as we climbed the last 2 miles to our lodge. Set high up in the Forest it turned out we had claimed all 12 rooms available. They all looked out on a magnificent , if a little foreboding, Forest. Quite the setting and panic started to set in ! A pre dinner ‘show’ was put on for us by disadvantaged children who can’t go to school because their families can’t afford it ! Several dances and songs were performed by about 15 youngsters from ages 4-13 ish. They all performed with great gusto and enthusiasm and were well deserving of a contribution to get them some sort of schooling. We then had our dinner, which was excellent and retired early for our 6:00 start tomorrow !
Day 10. Up at 4:40, brekkie 5:30. With everyone kitted out and raring to go we left the lodge close on 6:00 for the 2 hour trip to the Mountain Gorilla Trekking. The usual very bumpy ride, but we arrived just in time for the briefing. We were then split up into a 6 and a 5. Permits are sold out and groups of 8 are sent to discover individual families throughout the massive forest. We had a 6 comprising the younger, fitter members and a 5 of the opposite. I happily opted for the latter ! We also had Damian with us and were joined by a couple of strays to make up the 8. Once gathered we were welcomed by our guide, Maureen, and then driven to the best (nearest) access point. Trackers go out early to locate the families and radio in when they find them. At our point there were Porters waiting. These young lads and lasses are invaluable. They carry your bags, provide you with poles and help pull and push you through the difficult terrain. They are optional, but an absolute no-brainer for me. Once allotted we started up a vertical face. Literally pulled up by my Porter, Joseph and we were on our way. It’s called ‘impenetrable’ and it was exactly that. It was very tough working our way single file through overgrown nettles, vines and vegetation with added roots to trip you up. We also had to negotiate jumping ants nests (!) and not everyone did pass unscathed. We were heading downwards quite steeply and my thoughts were ‘what goes down must come up’. That was going to be a toughie ! We carried on for about 15 mins and took a breather while Maureen made contact with the Trackers. She reported ‘good news’ .. the gorillas were about an hour away. Excellent news. We carried on with 3 fallers in the group and around 40 mins later another stop. We had caught up with the trackers who told us the gorillas were just down the hill ! Fantastic !
We had some water (no food or drink is allowed to be taken when with the gorillas), got our cameras ready and headed down leaving our Porters with the baggage. Very shortly we came across 7 gorillas. This family comprises 13 individuals. 2 Silverbacks (one Big Daddy !), 7 females, 2 younger males and 2 babies. Our 7 were 2 silver, 4 females and a baby. They were all busily eating, lying about, climbing and even squabbling all in total disregard for us ! Much photographing, videoing followed, but also enjoying and appreciating just being in their presence. Our 1 hour allowed was ticking by and the idea was to follow the group if and when they decided to move on. They stayed put for 30 mins, which was terrific, and then the boss decided it was time to move up the hill. We duly followed in a single file as the gorillas moved to our left. It was on one of the many breathers taken climbing ‘Everest’ (!) that I turned to find the Silverback following. So what was the answer to the question, what to do ? The answer .. absolutely nothing ! We started moving up again and sure enough ‘our friend’ followed. We stopped again and so did he ! Keeping a safe distance. Very polite I thought. His patience did seem to be being tested though and he decided to make his own path just to our left. He crashed his way through the vegetation about 4 feet to my left ! What an impressive fellow he was ! He then stopped for a munch 6 feet away. Maureen then appeared to tell us we had reached our final 2 minutes. A few last shots and we were heading for home. This was one hell of a slog for some of us. Many stops were made to catch breath and have a drink. Meanwhile Joseph complete with my heavy backpack was as fresh as a daisy ! .. Youngsters !!
Eventually the road and vehicles were in sight and it was Mission Accomplished. Shortly after we received our certificates of accomplishment with photos taken. I paid Joseph for his excellent services including a hefty tip. A good lad. It was at this time we heard our other group were still down in the thick of it. We gave it a while, hoping they had seen some gorillas and about 20 mins later they turned up having been successful ! While we waited the Family we had watched appeared at the roadside 50 yards away and proceeded to cross before disappearing on the other side. Quite surreal. So, it was a very successful trek all round. We couldn’t have asked for more and everyone was delighted, if shattered.
We now set off for our Resort on Lake Bunyonyi. Dreadful roads for the most part, but with spectacular views into deep valleys covered in tea, coffee, banana and rice plantations. We arrived about 1:45. A 3 course dinner was chosen for 7:00 and then we were free to rest up. There are all sorts of activities to choose from at the Lake, but some R&R was very much needed. There was a general feeling that an extra day here would be very welcome. It’s a stunning setting. A pre dinner drink (or 5 for some !) followed by an excellent 3 course meal. By mid evening the day’s activities were catching up with most, if not all and the bed was beckoning. The good news was we weren’t scheduled to leave until 11:30 tomorrow. A lie in .. nice !
Day 11 was to be a day of mostly leisure .. if you can call bouncing up and down on a 2.5 hour drive, leisure. We actually left Lake Beautiful at 11 and we duly arrived at 1:30 on the dot at Emburara Eco Resort in the middle of nowhere. This is a very exclusive Resort attached to a farm. We were shown to our ‘rooms’ and were all blown away by them ! They were Rondavels, which are like circular chalets. Mine was large ! A fantastic room with a nice private balcony. We returned to the main area through a beautifully flowered walkway for a buffet lunch. The salad starters were becoming addictive. A very nice meal with a de rigueur Nile Special ! My afternoon plan was for more R&R on the balcony, which followed a quiet walk around the area with the like minded Mary.
At 6:15 we gathered in Reception for our meeting with the Ankole cattle. A breed renowned for their monstrously long horns. We donned our gumboots and set off for the field where we met up with their Master, John. He gave us a rundown on his herd, which numbered around 40 (?). We entered the field and were able to walk amongst this passive breed. They enjoy some touching and were very obliging. It was fascinating to see the horns close up. Absurdly long. John then invited us to move to the field next door and the Ankole followed us. They know their schedule well and we were taking them to bed ! We then moved into a 3rd field where a very smoky fire was started. This is the cattle’s signal to settle down for the night. The smoke and fire warms them and they all gather round to enjoy the heat. It was now nearly dark and we headed back to another field where we had a moonlight dinner, literally (new moon). A warming fire was close by. A tasty meal which was finished off with some local singing and dancing. A good finale to the evening.
Day 12, brekkie 7:30, bags out 8:30 and on the road at 9:10. A long haul to home (Entebbe) today on good quality, but insanely busy roads. There appears to be only one main road from South West to East and everyone was on it, even the President’s son ! We suffered a puncture at a police checkpoint and while waiting for the repairs to be carried out a convoy of about 20 vehicles shot through. Our guides told us who it was. It seemed like an excessive amount of Security if you ask me. We actually made pretty good time to our lunch stop, which was taken bang on the Equator. I tried the ‘Rolex’, a local speciality. An omelette filled with veg and served in a chapati. Not bad ! A 30 yard walk took us to the invisible Equator line. The compulsory photos of one foot in each hemisphere were taken as well as a group shot. Then it was off to Entebbe and our last hotel night. It took just over 2 hours thanks to encounters with very large and very, very, very slow lorries.
Finally we reached our destination at 4:30. Some more chill time before most of us took the drive down to Lake Victoria and local restaurant. We had placed our orders just before we left just to save some time. This was a very tasty meal. ‘Dirty Fries’ was particularly good and the Mango ice cream superb ! There was no early rush required tomorrow as we weren’t leaving the hotel until 12:30.
Day 13 and a leisurely start. Brekkie taken just after 8:30. A walk around to the Mall to get some Ugandan tea for folks back home. Some final packing and a rest before the bags were taken down to the lobby for 12:30. Everything loaded and with all present and correct we headed for the airport at 1:15. We said our goodbyes to Africano and Tony. They had been fantastic company throughout. Their contribution to this trip cannot be underestimated. Absolutely top draw. 2 top blokes !
Now, Security .. what will you have in store ?
Frisk, X-ray, sniffer dog, bags in tray along with watch, belt, shoes, wallet, jacket. All done ? Not quite. 100 yards further on the whole process done again ! Perhaps they might have missed something (?) Next, covid pass,passport, yellow fever certificate, flight details, fingerprints, photo …talk about thorough ! I got through eventually and then had a brief look round a very modest duty free area. Most of us gathered in the cafe to enjoy a cold drink. About 3:15 we moved into our departure gate (there’s only 4) and a short time later we boarded. It turned out I had a two seater all to myself. After a pleasant 5 hour flight we landed at 10:15 local. Escaping Security again we now had roughly 4 hours to kill before the final leg. Extensive duty free options in Dubai, as you might imagine. A very impressive terminal. At around 2:00 we boarded and weariness was setting in. After another delay we finally took off at 3:05 with another 7 hours in the air to look forward to. A full plane, so no stretching out sideways this time. With little sleep coming it was a bit of a drag. Around 5:00 (bst) breakfast was served. We landed at 7:14, but only got off 18 mins later for some reason. We joined a massive queue at passport control, but it moved well and we got through in about 20 mins. Baggage reclaim delivered all the bags .. always a great relief ! Now it was time for the group farewells. What a great group this had been. Zero problems and huge fun throughout. Now it was time for home. Several of us had used the chauffeur system and we found all the drivers together with their name cards. There’s been much debate about this service. My experience was excellent. From landing to meeting my driver it had been 80 mins. Way beyond the ‘allowed’ time. That was no problem for him and it proved a very good and smooth process overall.
Back home at 9:12 and back to reality !
Things to consider, if you’re thinking of doing this Tour.
It is a full on Tour with early starts on most days.
A certain level of fitness is required. Even the Rhinos and Chimps proved quite strenuous.
The gorilla trek is tough, but so, so rewarding.
Food is good throughout. Several packed breakfasts/lunches are taken, but offer a decent light meal out in the thick of it.
The Lodges/Hotels are good despite the odd grumble. Lake Bunyonyi is spectacular and deserving of a second night.
Weather conditions will depend on time of year. We had glorious hot and sunny weather throughout with just the briefest of showers at Bwindi.
The roads can be a bit of an endurance test. Bumpy, very bumpy and almost impassable at times. That said our drivers were astounding. Their concentration and focus was incredible and helped considerably to alleviate any discomfort.
I can only speak highly of this Tour. It was a fantastic experience in a beautiful and incredibly green Country. So many memories. The unexpected bonus, for me, was the insight you got into the Ugandan ‘way of life’. Thought provoking and eye-opening throughout.
Our TM, Damian was brilliant. He knows Uganda extremely well and he kept us all on track.
Drivers, Africano and Tony were absolute stars and really good, friendly guys.
And the group .. it was a superb group of 11 who all gelled really well. Great fun was had throughout and even a hotel record was set ! (Most pina coladas drunk in one night .. more than 4, less than 6). No names, or Debs might get upset .. 🙂
